Issue No. 08The July EditionProsecco and Pilates
The Spritz List

The gift and living guide from Prosecco and Pilates. Everything chosen once, kept until something better appears.

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Entertaining

Glassware Worth The Cabinet Space

Fourteen glasses that earn a shelf, from the tumbler you can replace at any hardware store to the set you will pass down.

Clear stemmed glasses on a set table
Glassware Worth The Cabinet Space Photograph Benjamin Brunner

Cabinet space is the real constraint in most kitchens; nobody is short on glasses, and everyone is short on room. The test I use is simple: a glass earns its place if it works for at least three things, and if losing one to the sink does not ruin the set.

That rules out almost every novelty shape, and it rules in a short list of workhorses. What follows is the order I would buy them in, starting with the ones you will reach for nightly and ending with the pair worth saving for.

There is also the question of how a set ages. Machine pressed glass chips at the rim and then it is finished; hand blown glass tends to break outright rather than degrade, which sounds worse and is actually easier to live with, because you replace one rather than slowly losing faith in the whole set. Buy in sixes where you expect breakage and in twos where you do not.

A glass earns its place if it works for at least three things.
The edit
01

The stackable tumbler, set of six

$36

Pressed glass, short enough to fit under a low shelf, and heavy enough that it does not tip when you fill it with ice.

02

The all purpose wine glass

$52

One bowl for red and white; the sommelier argument matters less than whether you will actually wash these and put them away.

03

The coupe

$68

It holds a spritz, a martini, and a scoop of sorbet, which is the definition of earning its shelf.

04

The highball, set of four

$44

Tall, straight sided, and the right vessel for anything you build over ice at the counter.

05

The hand blown pair

$260

Thin rim, weighted base, sold in twos rather than sixes; these are the ones you use when it is just the two of you.

The one thing I would skip is the specialist shape you bought for a single drink; the martini glass that only holds a martini spends fifty-one weeks a year taking up the shelf a tumbler could have used. If a glass cannot hold water on a Tuesday, it has not earned the space.

How many of each

The number that works for most households is six of the everyday shapes and two of the special ones. Six covers a dinner party with a spare, and it survives the year in which one goes into the sink wrong; two acknowledges that the beautiful glass is for the two of you on a Thursday rather than for a crowd.

Buying eight of something expensive is where people overspend. You will not seat eight often enough to justify it, and the set becomes something you protect rather than use, which is the opposite of what glassware is for.

Weight, rim, and why they matter

The two things worth checking in your hand are the weight of the base and the thickness of the rim. A heavy base keeps a glass upright on a crowded table and gives it a quality that has nothing to do with price; a thin rim changes how a drink tastes, which sounds like something a sommelier invented and is immediately obvious once you compare two glasses side by side.

Machine pressed glass tends to have a rolled rim, a slight lip you can feel with your thumb. It is more durable and it is the honest choice for anything you will use daily; save the thin rim for the pair you are careful with.

Storing them so they last

Store glasses upright rather than upside down. Rim down is what restaurants do because they are wiping the shelf constantly; at home it presses the most fragile part of the glass into a surface and traps a stale smell inside the bowl.

Give each glass a little air on both sides. Most breakage happens in the cupboard rather than in the sink, when one glass is pushed against another reaching for something behind it. A shelf that holds eight comfortably is better than one crammed with twelve.

If you are starting from nothing, buy the tumblers and the highballs first; they will carry you through a year of ordinary evenings while you decide what else you actually miss.

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